The Temple That Flew from the Sky
Have you ever heard the story of the "Temple that Flew from the Sky"?
Today, I would like to introduce you to a special temple hidden at the foot of Mt. Godok in Guui-myeon, Wanju-gun, Jeollabuk-do: the ‘Wanju Gyeongboksaji’.
Although it is now a quiet ruin with no remaining buildings, it was once a grand temple that commanded respect across the nation, steeped in the mysterious tale of a high monk from Goguryeo who flew here.
Personally, this place holds special meaning for me. My family home is located in the nearby village of Pyeongchon, and at the entrance to Gyeongboksaji lie the graves of my grandparents, which we visit every holiday.
Today, I want to share with you the legend of the ‘Biraebangjang,’ a cherished story I have heard countless times since childhood, revealing a hidden gem of a place.
Miracle of the 7th Century: "Did the temple fly from the sky?"
The tale of Gyeongboksaji begins with a mystical legend. In the mid-7th century, the high monk Boduk was concerned about the decline of the nation as Taoism was overly revered and Buddhism suppressed.
After several unsuccessful attempts to advise the king, he made a rather bold decision.
According to the records in the 'Samguk Yusa,' Boduk is said to have used his supernatural powers to lift his dwelling (Bangjang) into the sky, leaving Goguryeo and relocating to Baekje's territory, now known as Mt. Godok in Wanju.
Of course, no building could have actually flown. However, the fact that Goguryeo's greatest monk sought asylum in Baekje was a significant shock to the people of that time.
Boduk's Temple Visited by Wonhyo and Uisang
Settled on Mt. Godok, Boduk established Gyeongboksaji and founded the ‘Nirvana Sect.’
The core teaching was simple yet powerful: everyone possesses Buddha-nature, and anyone can attain enlightenment.
During the chaotic period of Baekje's fall and its incorporation into Silla, this egalitarian teaching likely provided significant comfort to the wounded Baekje refugees.
Gyeongboksaji was quite renowned. It is said that the prominent monks Wonhyo and Uisang visited to hear Boduk's teachings.
It was not just a local temple but a center of Buddhist scholarship attracting monks from across the nation.
Notable Figures of Goryeo: Yi Gyubo's Visit
The allure of Gyeongboksaji was not limited to monks. During the Goryeo period, the great monk Uicheon visited to pay respects to Boduk’s portrait and left behind poetry.
Yi Gyubo, one of Goryeo's finest writers, also made a special trip here.
In his travelogue 'Namhaeng Wolilgi,' Yi Gyubo records his visit after being assigned to Jeonju.
On October 8, 1199, he took a day off from his busy duties to visit Gyeongboksaji.
The temple is located about a thousand steps from the center of Jeonju, where the Biraebangjang is said to be. I had heard of this for a long time but was too busy with work to visit until I finally took a day off.
The excitement of finally seeing the legendary Biraebangjang is evident in his writings.
According to 'Dongguk Isanggukjip,' Yi Gyubo stayed at Gyeongboksaji for a day and the next day entered the Biraebangjang to see Boduk’s portrait and left poetry, indicating that the portrait was well-preserved until the Goryeo period.
Recognized as One of the 36 Major Temples by Sejong
Gyeongboksaji's high status continued firmly from Silla and Goryeo into the Joseon Dynasty.
In 1424, King Sejong organized the temples nationwide, officially recognizing only 36, including Gyeongboksaji.
At that time, Gyeongboksaji was granted 150 gyeol (a considerable area of farmland today), and the number of resident monks was set at 70.
Although it faced challenges and was later replaced by Sangwon Temple in Gangneung, it remained a state-recognized temple into early Joseon.
Millennium Traces Awakened from the Soil
Such a grand temple closed its doors and was forgotten at some point in the late Joseon period.
It reemerged in the 1970s when a team from Jeonbuk National University discovered tiles inscribed with the name "Gyeongboksaji" at the foot of Mt. Godok.
Subsequent excavations revealed large stone structures, building sites, wells, walls, and kiln sites, uncovering the layout of a large temple.
Tiles inscribed with names like “Gyeongboksaji” and “Biraebangjang,” along with exquisite ceramics, confirmed that this was a prestigious temple closely associated with the royal family.
Encountering Living History at Wanju's Mt. Godok
Today, Gyeongboksaji has no grand halls or massive statues left. However, walking along the serene forest paths of Mt. Godok, you will encounter the majestic stone structures and vast grounds that have withstood the test of time.
Gyeongboksaji is more than just a temple site; it embodies the bold narrative of a Goguryeo monk's exile, the tumultuous history of Baekje and Silla, and the flow of our spiritual culture that continued through Goryeo and Joseon.
Currently, it is designated as a cultural asset of Jeollabuk-do and is preserved with care.
This weekend, why not take a leisurely stroll to Mt. Godok in Wanju and reflect on the legend of the monk who flew from the sky as you wander through Gyeongboksaji?
Source :https://blog.naver.com/wanjugun/224358707988
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