Exploring the Unique Landscape of Ulsan's Hwangseong-dong
In Hwangseong-dong, Nam-gu, Ulsan, you can encounter a somewhat unique landscape where the Owhang River merges with the sea at its estuary.
At your feet, old pine trees cast long shadows, and the water flows slowly. Across the river, oil storage tanks, cranes, and dark factory walls fill the skyline. Among them, a small rock appears like an island.
Here, the stage of mythology overlaps with the stage of industry within a single landscape.
Upon entering this space, you may hesitate for a moment about which direction to look. Beneath the pine trees, a tranquility seems to halt time, while on the opposite side, traces of time passing too quickly stand starkly.
About 150 meters west from the water's edge, there is a small rocky island known as Cheoyongam, which translates to 'Cheoyong's Rock.' This site is said to tell the story of Cheoyong rising from the sea.
The Samguk Yusa records the tale of Cheoyong's ascent from the sea. When King Heongang of Silla visited Gaewoonpo, clouds and fog suddenly obscured the path, making it impossible to discern the way. An official observing the heavens suggested that a dragon residing in the East Sea was upset, and that they should appease it with a good deed.
When the king ordered the construction of a temple for the dragon on nearby good land, the fog lifted. Then, a dragon with seven sons appeared, dancing and playing music.
One of those sons followed the king to Silla, and he was Cheoyong.
On one side of the water, there stands a sculpture depicting Cheoyong, created for the Cheoyong Cultural Festival in 2001. The figure, 'Young Cheoyong,' retains traditional attire and a hat but features a friendly and lively expression. With large eyes and a playful smile, the colorful boy stands against the backdrop of oil storage tanks and factories.
The juxtaposition of Young Cheoyong and the massive industrial facilities vividly illustrates the temporal gap of this place.
This site is more of a destination for lingering than a typical tourist spot. It is not a flashy tourist attraction, and there are no ticket booths or long lines, making it a perfect place for quiet reflection.
From the octagonal pavilion, leaning against the railing, you can see where the river meets the sea in one glance. The shade created by the old pine trees remains cool even in the height of summer, and the sound of stepping on pine needles softly crumbles beneath your feet.
As suggested by the sign at the photo zone, it is a great spot to take a picture with a loved one. Fishing boats sway gently on the water, and the Sangpan Bridge crosses the river in the distance. Instead of being flashy, this landscape holds memories of time.
The king granted Cheoyong a title and a beautiful wife. The temple built to appease the dragon was named Manghaesa, meaning 'the temple facing the sea.'
Today, the rocky island remains quiet. A few fishing boats sway, tethered by ropes, reflecting the afternoon sunlight on the water's surface. The scenery is too indifferent to be called the place where a god rose from the sea. Yet, perhaps this indifference is the way an ancient place endures time.
The reason Cheoyong's story has survived for so long is not solely because he is the son of a dragon.
When Cheoyong returned home late one night after wandering the streets of Silla, he found that his bed had four legs. Two belonged to his wife, while the other two belonged to a spirit of disease. The spirit had taken the form of a person and entered beside his wife.
At that moment, Cheoyong did not draw his sword. Instead, he chose to sing and dance as he retreated.
The song he sang is inscribed on the Cheoyong monument by the water.
“On a bright moonlit night in Seoul,
After wandering late into the night,
I returned to find
Four legs on my bed.
Two are mine, but
Whose are the other two?
Originally, they were mine,
But what can I do about what was taken?”
It is said that the spirit knelt before Cheoyong's attitude. It swore never to enter a place where Cheoyong's face was depicted again. Since then, people have placed Cheoyong's face on their doors to ward off illness and disaster.
The one who chose song over anger in the face of the unattainable became a deity that prevents misfortune.
As I watch the river flow behind the Cheoyong monument, seemingly unaffected by anything, the last line takes on a slightly different meaning.
“What can I do about what was taken?”
Next to Cheoyongam, there stands a stone known as Sejuk Old Village Monument. It indicates that a village called 'Sejuk,' meaning 'thin bamboo,' once existed here.
The history of Sejuk Village runs deeper than one might think. About 6,000 years ago, Neolithic people settled by this riverside, leaving behind shell mounds as evidence. During the Bronze Age, people began fishing along the coast. In the Three Han period, it belonged to Jinhan and was later called Gaewoonpo during the Silla era.
The riverside where Cheoyong ascended has been inhabited by people for a very long time.
In relatively recent times, Sejuk Village was a thriving fishing community. In spring, over 3,000 visitors flocked to the area, and around 50 tourist buses would arrive. There were about ten sashimi restaurants, and the village became known for the Jin Namhoe festival. The villagers sustained their lives at sea using traps and diving gear.
What erased that village was neither war nor natural disaster. In the 1970s, a petrochemical complex was established upstream of the Owhang River. The once-blue sea turned into a polluted one, and people found it increasingly difficult to live here. Residents began to leave in the 1990s, and by 1999, a mass migration occurred, leaving the village completely empty.
Now, only the Sejuk Old Village Monument quietly testifies that a village once existed here. The loss endured by Cheoyong through song and the loss experienced by the Sejuk villagers as they packed their belongings overlap across more than a millennium at the same riverside.
This place is more of a destination for sitting and letting time flow by rather than a hurried stop. The Neolithic shell mounds, Silla songs, the vanished fishing village, and the industrial complex across the river all converge in one location. Here, what matters more is not what you see but how long you stay.
Before leaving, I take one last look at the rocky island on the water.
This is the place where Cheoyong rose and where a village once stood, now only a few boats are tied up. Without holding onto anything, the waves continue to gently stir.
“What can I do about what was taken?”
With that ancient question in mind, the riverside at the Owhang River estuary quietly awaits someone today.
Location: Hwangseong-dong, Nam-gu, Ulsan, near Sejuk Village, Owhang River estuary
Cheoyongam: A rocky island located about 150 meters west of the Sejuk Village old site beach
Viewing Points: Cheoyongam, Cheoyong Monument, Sejuk Old Village Monument, Young Cheoyong Sculpture, Octagonal Pavilion, Pine Trees, and Owhang River estuary landscape.
Source :https://blog.naver.com/ulsan_nuri/224361405942
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