The Hidden Story of Parkdaljae: A Legendary Pass in Jecheon, Chungbuk
Hello! I am Chae Bo-hyun, a social media supporter from Chungcheongbuk-do.
While driving along National Route 38 from Chungju to Jecheon, most vehicles are drawn into the cool and spacious Parkdaljae Tunnel.
Gone are the days of panting as we navigate the steep pass. If one only thinks of reaching the destination quickly, the tunnel is, of course, the convenient choice.
However, on this day, I wanted to explore a different route. Instead of mindlessly heading straight into the tunnel, I turned the steering wheel towards the winding old Parkdaljae road.
As I slowed down and rolled down the window, the scenery and air changed dramatically. Leaving the busy highway, I was soon surrounded by lush forests, and at the end of the old road, a grand traditional gate appeared.
It was the moment I reached the summit of Parkdaljae, known for the folk song “Woeing Over Parkdaljae.”
Why is it called 'Woeing Over Parkdaljae'?
Parkdaljae is a pass located at an elevation of 504 meters between Bongyang-eup and Baegun-myeon in Jecheon. Originally, it was called 'Idungnyeong,' meaning the ridge between Cheongdeungsan and Jideungsan. Historically, it is known as the victory site of General Kim Chwi-ryeo during the Goryeo Dynasty against the Khitan army.
However, for us today, Parkdaljae is more deeply engraved in our hearts as a poignant 'love story' rather than a grand history, thanks to the popular song released in 1948, “Woeing Over Parkdaljae.”
In the past, a scholar from Gyeongsang-do named Parkdal, who dreamed of passing the state examination in Hanyang, met a beautiful maiden named Geumbong at the village below this pass and fell in love at first sight.
Parkdal promised, “I will return after passing the exam,” and set off, while Geumbong tearfully saw him off, praying for his success.
But upon arriving in Hanyang, Parkdal was so consumed with thoughts of Geumbong that he could not study properly and ultimately failed the exam. Unable to return home in shame, he delayed his journey, and in the meantime, Geumbong, exhausted from her longing, passed away while praying at the shrine.
When Parkdal finally returned and learned of Geumbong’s death, he wept bitterly. As he wandered in grief, he saw her in a vision and, trying to embrace her, fell off a cliff and lost his life.
Interestingly, rather than an old legend becoming a song, it seems that 'the song has materialized the legend.' The name 'Geumbong' and the specific tragic narrative were added to the faint stories passed down since ancient times when the song gained national popularity in the 1940s.
Parkdaljae is indeed a fascinating place where a song created a story, and that story has breathed life into the location.
The Disappeared Woodcarving Park? The 'Parkdaljae Renovation Project' towards 2027.
Reflecting on this poignant story, I arrived at the summit. My original plan was to visit the 'Parkdaljae Woodcarving Park' to see the statues of the two legendary figures and the Buddhist art epitome, Mokguleam.
However, upon arrival, I was greeted by an unexpected sight. The park entrance was surrounded by a massive construction barrier, and access was completely restricted.
This was due to the Jecheon City’s extensive 'Parkdaljae Renovation Project.' According to the site notice, the construction period is from May 15, 2026, to January 9, 2027.
It’s not just simple repairs; it’s a significant renovation to completely revamp the Woodcarving Park and the small park, as well as to expand Mokguleam.
On the day I visited, many travelers reluctantly turned away after climbing the pass only to face the construction site.
If you are planning a trip to Parkdaljae this fall, please note that the Woodcarving Park will be closed for viewing until early next year.
An Unexpected Comfort: The 'Ip Sin Yang Myeong Past Road' Opened in the Forest.
Just as I was about to turn around in disappointment for not seeing the Woodcarving Park, I spotted a neatly organized new walking path entrance across the road.
At the entrance, there are statues of Parkdal and Geumbong, and as I walked a little further, I found a space for enjoying the traditional game Tuho and a dynamic golden horse sculpture.
At first, I wondered what a horse sculpture was doing in the mountains, but upon seeing the sign that read 'Ip Sin Yang Myeong Past Road,' I nodded in understanding.
The earnest footsteps of scholars heading to Hanyang to take the state examination and the narrative of Parkdal are embedded in this path.
I stepped onto the wooden deck trail that winds through the pine forest.
The sweltering heat of midsummer was subdued within the dense pine forest. Along the deck, there were cute sculptures of Parkdal and Geumbong that brought smiles to visitors, adding to the joy of walking.
If the old Woodcarving Park was a space to 'see' the legend through statues, this newly renovated walking path offers an experience to 'walk through' the stories of that time while inhaling the scent of the forest.
From the path that transcended the past to the path facing a landscape painting.
As I ascended the trail a bit higher, a stylish two-story octagonal pavilion appeared amidst the forest.
Catching my breath, I climbed to the pavilion, and the moment I faced the view before me, I couldn’t help but exclaim.
The nearby mountains were a deep green, while the distant ranges layered like an ink wash painting in light blue.
The winding road and the overlapping mountains created a perfect landscape painting.
For those who crossed this rugged pass hundreds of years ago, this place was likely just a difficult and tearful road.
However, today, the view of Parkdaljae from this pavilion boasts breathtaking scenery that rivals any famous mountain viewpoint.
Although I didn’t see the Woodcarving Park, just facing this expansive view made all the effort of climbing the winding old road feel worthwhile.
In the past, it was a road that had to be crossed quickly, panting. With the tunnel, this old road nearly faded from memory, but it is now evolving into a 'place to linger' where one can slowly walk, feel the forest, and encounter stories.
This weekend, how about taking a healing drive along the old Parkdaljae road instead of rushing through the tunnel?
The slowly walking forest path and the landscape like a painting from the pavilion will soothe your weary heart.
[Important Tips Before Visiting Parkdaljae!]
Parkdaljae Renovation Project (Under Construction): 2026.05.15 - 2027.01.09 (Access to Parkdaljae Woodcarving Park and existing statues is restricted during this period)
Alternative Visit Course: I highly recommend utilizing the newly created 'Ip Sin Yang Myeong Past Road' walking path and the octagonal pavilion across from the construction site.
Parking: Ample parking space at the summit of Parkdaljae (near the gate).
Source :https://blog.naver.com/cbkb21/224378727579
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