A Rainy Temple Stay at Woljeongsa
374-8 Odaesan-ro, Jinbu-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do
월정사
Seeking a break from the digital world and the noise of daily life, I returned to the mountains of Pyeongchang for a two-night templestay at Woljeongsa Temple (월정사). Nestled in the heart of Odaesan National Park, this temple is a sanctuary of deep history and natural beauty. While the higher-priced meditation villages nearby were a tempting thought, the simplicity and historic aura of Woljeongsa offered the perfect alternative for a solo traveler on a budget.
My stay was defined by the rhythmic sound of rain and the towering presence of the thousand-year-old fir tree forest. It wasn't a trip filled with energetic sightseeing, but rather one of "blank staring"—sipping jujube tea in quiet cafes, watching the clouds roll over the valley, and finding peace in doing absolutely nothing. Even the unplanned detour to Mukho on the way home became part of this slow, humid, and ultimately healing journey.
The Fir Tree Forest Path: A Walk of Stars and Rain
The main draw of Woljeongsa is undoubtedly its legendary fir tree forest path. On the first night, the sky cleared just enough to reveal a bright moon and a blanket of stars, making the walk feel like a scene from a dream. However, the rain that began on the second day brought a different kind of charm. Walking between the massive fir trees as the mist settled in provided a profound sense of isolation and quietude.
With no strict schedule to follow, I found myself spending hours at the temple cafe near the entrance. Sitting there, gazing at the valley stream while the rain pitter-pattered on the roof, was exactly the kind of rest I needed. It was a time to unburden my mind from "other people's ideas" and simply exist in the present moment.
Sangwonsa: A Quiet Retreat Further Up the Mountain
On the second rainy day, I took a local bus further up the mountain to Sangwonsa Temple. It is smaller and notably quieter than Woljeongsa, offering a more intimate spiritual atmosphere. I sat in another quiet cafe with a warm cup of jujube tea, watching the rain wash over the traditional tiled roofs. The return to Woljeongsa coincided with a heavy downpour, making the warm meal at the Gongyang Hall (temple dining hall) feel even more welcoming.
Transitioning Back: From Jinbu Station to Mukho
The journey back had its own rhythm. While waiting for my train at Jinbu Station, I spent time in the Cultural Space, a beautifully designed area for travelers to rest. Although I picked up a book, I realized I had lost interest in the written word—I just wanted my mind to be still. Due to ticket availability, my path took me to Mukho, a coastal town in the opposite direction.
Mukho was humider and cloudier than the mountains, and carrying a heavy backpack made long walks unappealing. Instead of the famous Nongoldam-gil Alley, I found a cozy spot called "Coffee Yes" near Mukho Station. The smell of hand-drip coffee and freshly baked walnut pastries provided a final moment of relaxation before the train journey home. It was a strange, unplanned end to a trip that was all about letting go of control.
Photo Gallery: Moments of Stillness
My Woljeongsa templestay was a reminder that sometimes the best way to move forward is to sit still. Have you ever visited a place that made you want to put down every book and just watch the rain? If you're planning your own healing trip to Pyeongchang, would you like me to find the bus schedules between Woljeongsa and Sangwonsa, or perhaps the best times to catch the stars in Odaesan?
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