From Reluctance to Affection: A Decade-Long Journey with Cheongnim-dong
A neighborhood I couldn't bring myself to like.
In 2004, as a middle schooler, my family moved to Bongcheon 3-dong after my parents won a lottery for an apartment. If you've heard stories about the old shantytowns of Bongcheon-dong, that was Bongcheon 3-dong. Bordered by Bongcheon Hill in the front and Ggachi Mountain in the back, it was a neighborhood with steep slopes and a history of unauthorized, substandard housing due to the government's limited access.
Even with large apartment complexes built, the village buses struggled to climb the roads because of the steepness. On rainy days, crossing the slopes meant battling strong currents that splashed water up to your head with every step. In winter, the roads would freeze, preventing the buses from running. I vividly remember slipping and falling on my backside a couple of times while walking to the subway station to get to school.
Outside the apartment complex area, shacks stood densely packed, creating a dark and dirty atmosphere. As a child eager to explore a new neighborhood, I was intimidated by the narrow, dark, and complex alleyways and the elderly residents sitting in front of them. I suppressed my desire to explore and stuck to the well-maintained areas. Moreover, rumors were circulating at the time that a ghost in Bongcheon-dong was targeting people wearing red!
I thought I'd never see it again!
In 2006, having met the required residency period and with my mother's company moving further away, we were able to move. I was so happy to leave that neighborhood. We moved to a flat area, and I spent my time exploring it, assuming I would never return to Bongcheon 3-dong. I completely forgot about it for ten years.
Then one day, my parents, nearing retirement, suggested we downsize and move back to the house we owned there. I was about to graduate from college at the time, and I knew I might be able to live on my own depending on where I got a job. I couldn't simply refuse, so I reluctantly agreed to return. Even before the move, I was tormented by my dislike, but with no other option, I suppressed those feelings day after day.
Reencountering Cheongnim
In 2016, when I returned, I discovered that Bongcheon 3-dong had disappeared and been renamed 'Cheongnim-dong.' Grumbling, 'Does changing the name change the neighborhood?' I spent my days resentfully looking at the area I passed through every day. Then, one weekend, I suddenly became curious about the alleyways I had never explored. The alleyways that had scared me as a child now had streetlights and well-maintained paths, giving me courage.
The Alleys of Cheongnim
Entering the alley following the old bathhouse chimney, I found many houses that seemed to operate under unwritten rules. There were interesting features, such as shared cement steps or shortcuts through houses that led to the next alley. I remember taking countless photos and having so much fun that day, emerging onto a street I hadn't expected. Following the alleys with shops that seemed stuck in the 80s, I reached a viewpoint overlooking the entire neighborhood. That day, I learned where all the alleyways led and started to think of it as a somewhat interesting place.
Cheongnim-dong's Shops
Over ten years, trees had grown lush, and a new apartment complex had been built next door, creating a promenade. Living there for a year, I realized that there were so many different kinds of trees that put out leaves and bloomed every season. Magnolias bloomed in early spring, followed by cherry blossoms. In summer, lush green leaves provided shade, and in autumn, the leaves turned beautifully colorful. I started to think, 'It's really nice to experience the seasons here.'
My favorite cherry tree in bloom this year.
But it was just the occasional walk. There was a lack of places to linger, like cozy cafes or snack bars. Even after returning, I spent little time in the neighborhood, and wanting to enjoy nice places, I often went all the way to Yeonnam-dong or Yongsan. A good place doesn't necessarily have to be pretty. For me, having a place where I can comfortably have a cup of coffee or a place to relax away from home was an essential element of a neighborhood. Perhaps, since I had decided to dislike it, I was looking for reasons to dislike it and constantly comparing it to other good places.
Seeing Cheongnim Again
Living with a feeling of endurance, I realized that I had been a resident of Cheongnim-dong again for exactly ten years. Somehow, I've grown fond of this neighborhood that I used to hate. I take walks from time to time, or even go hiking if I feel like it, and explore the alleyways where I can feel the old atmosphere.
The evening promenade.
On weekday evenings, I go to the yoga studio in the neighborhood after work and take a picture of the view overlooking the neighborhood on my way home.
-The view of the neighborhood on the way home after yoga
I look forward to the food trucks that come on certain days: sundae (Korean sausage) on Mondays, fried shrimp on Wednesdays, sundae stir-fry on Thursdays, and takoyaki on Fridays. And on the day the sundae truck comes, I chuckle to myself when I see a long line of men in their 50s waiting behind the truck. It's as if they're standing there with the same excitement they felt when they bought tteok-kkochi (skewered rice cakes) in front of elementary school.
At some point, I started leaving the neighborhood less often. On weekends without plans, I enjoy waking up late, taking a walk along the promenade, and reading a book while having a cup of coffee at the neighborhood cafe. I stroll through the market and always check out any new shops that have opened. There are so many nice places within walking distance.
The neighborhood cafe that provides a resting place.
Cheongnim, which I've re-examined after ten years, has now become a comfortable place for me. The infrastructure is better than before, which makes it more convenient, but I think it's also because the neighborhood now has the elements that make it feel like home to me. Walking trails and parks that can be enjoyed without spending money, and cafes and restaurants that can be enjoyed through consumption. The emergence of good places has made it a neighborhood I want to stay in.
Cheongnim Remaining
Cheongnim, now finally my friend. I want to introduce my favorite places as a resident who has lived here for nearly ten years. However, this too is finite. The Cheongnim-dong area is facing redevelopment again. Banners from the redevelopment association and construction companies have been hung up alternately, and now the neighborhood real estate agencies are starting to renovate. It's not going to happen next year, but the thought that the place I've finally grown attached to is finite leaves me with regret, along with the feeling that it can't be helped. Still, I'll remember and record Cheongnim well for the time that remains.
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