From Reluctance to Affection: A Decade-Long Journey with Cheongnim-dong
14, Gwanak-ro 30-gil, Gwanak-gu, Seoul, Republic of Korea HTML
청림동
Some neighborhoods take time to grow on you, and for me, Cheongnim-dong (청림동)—formerly known as Bongcheon 3-dong—was a place I once actively disliked. Moving here as a middle schooler in 2004, I was intimidated by its steep slopes, dark shantytown alleys, and the struggle of daily life on a hill. It was a neighborhood I couldn't wait to leave and one I thought I would never return to.
However, life brought me back ten years later, and this second encounter transformed my resentment into a deep, lingering affection. By exploring the hidden alleyways, witnessing the changing seasons through local trees, and finding comfort in neighborhood cafes, I discovered the true charm of this resilient area. This is a record of a neighborhood that finally became my friend just as it faces the winds of redevelopment once again.
The Steep Memory of Old Bongcheon-dong
Battling slopes and shacks in the early 2000s
In 2004, my family moved to an apartment complex built on what used to be a shantytown. The geography of Bongcheon-dong was notoriously steep; village buses often failed to climb the frozen roads in winter, and rainy days turned the slopes into rushing currents. For a young student, walking to the subway was a physical battle, often resulting in slips and falls on the icy pavement.
Beyond the modern apartments, the dense shacks and narrow, dark alleys felt intimidating. Rumors of ghosts and the complex web of unauthorized housing made me stick only to the well-maintained main roads. When we finally moved away in 2006, I celebrated, convinced that I had put the dark and dirty atmosphere of Bongcheon behind me forever.
Reencountering Cheongnim-dong (청림동)
A new name and a newfound curiosity
When I reluctantly returned in 2016, the neighborhood had been renamed Cheongnim-dong (청림동). Initially cynical, I soon found myself curious about the very alleys that once scared me. Now equipped with streetlights and better maintenance, these paths invited exploration. I followed old bathhouse chimneys and discovered "unwritten rules" of shared cement steps and creative shortcuts between houses.
Reaching a viewpoint that overlooked the entire neighborhood, I realized that these complex alleys were actually fascinating connections. The shops, which seemed frozen in the 80s, gave the area a unique character. I began to see the beauty in the lush trees that bloomed with magnolias in the spring and provided deep shade in the summer, making me appreciate the passing seasons for the first time.
The Rhythm of Daily Life and Neighborhood Comforts
Food trucks, yoga, and cozy local cafes
Over the last ten years, I’ve settled into a comfortable rhythm. I’ve grown to love the evening view after yoga and the weekly food trucks that bring a sense of community to the streets. Seeing grown men wait in line for the Monday sundae truck with the excitement of elementary schoolers is a sight that always makes me smile.
What truly made the difference was finding places to linger. Having a neighborhood cafe where I can read a book or a promenade for weekend walks has made Cheongnim-dong feel like a real home. I no longer feel the need to travel to Yeonnam-dong or Yongsan to find "good places"; they are right here within walking distance, offering comfort and relaxation away from the house.
A Finite Friendship: Facing Future Redevelopment
Recording the remaining days of a beloved area
Now that I have finally grown fond of this place, the neighborhood is facing another wave of redevelopment. Banners from construction companies and real estate offices are signaling that this landscape is finite. While it won't disappear tomorrow, the thought of losing the atmosphere I've finally come to cherish fills me with regret.
Despite the looming changes, I intend to spend the remaining time well. I will continue to record and remember Cheongnim as it is today—a place that transitioned from a steep, intimidating hill to a warm, familiar friend. It is a neighborhood that proved even a place you once hated can become the most comfortable sanctuary if you give it a second chance.
Do you have a neighborhood that you once disliked but eventually fell in love with? What makes a place feel like "home" to you—is it the people, the scenery, or perhaps a favorite local cafe? If you're near Gwanak-gu, why not take a quiet walk through the unique alleys of Cheongnim-dong before it changes forever? Would you like to know more about the best hidden viewpoints in this area?
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