Cycling to Suraksan Mountain's Waterfalls and Naewonam Temple
151, Dongil-ro 242-gil, Nowon-gu, Seoul, Republic of Korea
수락산

Seoul is a unique city nestled comfortably among mountains, making it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. While many focus on the southern trails, North Seoul offers a majestic landscape divided by the Jungnangcheon Stream. To the east lies Suraksan Mountain (수락산), a granite masterpiece filled with oddly shaped rocks and torrential waterfalls that come alive after the rain.
This journey takes us on a long-distance bike ride from the heart of Seoul to the hidden valleys of Suraksan. From the urban skyline of Lotte Tower to the spiritual heights of Naewonam Temple, this route combines paved bike paths, steep public roads, and a final trek on foot to discover the refreshing "water massage" customs of Korean tradition.
The Urban Start: From Yongbigyo to Byeollae
Cycling along the Jungnangcheon and Wangsukcheon Streams
The adventure began at Yongbigyo Bridge, the meeting point of the Jungnangcheon Stream and the Han River. Heading east, the iconic silhouette of the Lotte Tower stood tall against the horizon. The route transitioned through Guri City, meeting the Wangsukcheon Stream and heading north toward Toegyewon and the newly developed bike paths of Byeollae's Deoksongcheon Stream.
Riding through these well-maintained paths provides a smooth transition from the city's bustle to the foot of the mountains. Following the flow of the Yongamcheon Stream, the path eventually merges into the public roads leading toward the Cheonghakdong Valley of Suraksan Mountain (수락산), where the real climbing begins.
The Three Waterfalls of Cheonghakdong Valley
Discovering Okgnyu, Eunryu, and Geumnyu Waterfalls
Suraksan's Cheonghakdong Valley is home to three distinct falls: Okgnyu at the bottom, Eunryu in the middle, and Geumnyu at the uppermost reaches. The climb up the paved road toward Naewonam Temple is steep and challenging. While vehicle access is restricted, the valley is well-developed with plenty of shaded spots for hikers and cyclists to rest.
As you ascend, the sound of rushing water becomes your companion. Okgnyu Waterfall is a beautiful sight, though access is currently limited. Beyond this point, the road becomes significantly steeper, and in some places, the pavement shows the scars of heavy summer rains, reminding visitors of the mountain's raw power during the wet season.
The Spiritual Climb to Naewonam Temple
A trek through history and steep stone stairs
At a certain point, the cycling path ends and the walking trail begins. After locking the bike near the stone path, the journey continues up a series of wooden and rock staircases. The forest deepens here, feeling like a scene from a beautiful painting. The final stretch to Naewonam Temple involves a steep 45-degree stone staircase that requires careful balance.
Naewonam Temple holds a fascinating history, rebuilt in 1955 after its destruction during the Korean War. It is famously associated with King Jeongjo, who is said to have seen a crown prince born after prayers were offered at this very site. The temple sits as a peaceful sanctuary overlooking the rugged granite peaks of the mountain.
Heavenly Flavors and the Water Massage Custom
Yeolmu Guksu and the tradition of Yudu Day
Right above Geumnyu Waterfall sits the Naewonam snack bar, a hidden gem for hikers. Their cold kimchi noodle soup (yeolmu guksu) is legendary. Eating these noodles while dipping your feet in the cold spring water is an experience that feels truly heavenly. The area is also surrounded by maple trees, making it a prime spot for autumn foliage.
Following the Yudu Day tradition (June 15th of the lunar calendar), taking a "water massage" under the waterfall is said to bring longevity. Finding the Fairy Pond (Seonnyeotang) below the falls allows for a refreshing dip and a natural water massage to beat the summer heat. It is a seasonal custom that turns a difficult hike into a revitalizing ritual.
Have you ever tried the traditional "water massage" under a real waterfall? Would you be brave enough to tackle the steep 45-degree stone stairs of Naewonam Temple? If you're looking for the best bowl of yeolmu guksu with a view, Suraksan Mountain is calling. Would you like me to recommend more historic temples in North Seoul with great cycling access?
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