A Rainy Day Escape: Naksan Park, Ihwa Mural Village, and Hakrim Dabang
54 Naksan-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
낙산공원
While the Chuseok holiday often calls for sunny skies, a rainy day in Seoul has its own poetic charm. My original goal was to complete the Seoul City Wall Stamp Tour, but with the rain settling in on National Foundation Day, my family and I decided to focus on the scenic Naksan Park section. It turned out to be the perfect "taste" of the fortress trail—offering panoramic city views and a descent through the colorful alleys of Ihwa Mural Village.
From the heights of Nori Madang to the historic booths of Hakrim Dabang in Hyehwa, this walking tour is a journey through Seoul's historical layers and its vibrant democratization era. Whether you are navigating the steep hills via the Jongno No. 3 bus or seeking shelter in a legendary teahouse, this route provides a fulfilling blend of nature, art, and nostalgic relaxation even under an umbrella.
Reaching the Summit: Naksan Park (낙산공원)
To avoid the incredibly steep incline leading up to Naksan Park, we took the Jongno No. 3 village bus from Changsin Station. This smart choice dropped us off directly at Naksan Nori Madang, effectively starting our tour at the top. The 360-degree panoramic view from the fortress walls is breathtaking; you can see Namsan Tower to the south and Bukaksan Mountain to the north, all draped in a misty, rainy atmosphere.
History at the Naksan Exhibition Hall
Before heading down, we visited the Naksan Exhibition Hall in the central square. It’s a meaningful space that chronicles the transformation of Naksan from the relocation of the capital in 1394 to its current status as a cultural landmark. Outside, you'll find a stele with President Syngman Rhee's calligraphy, "Respect Heaven and Love People," adding a layer of historical weight to the scenic vista.
A Descent into Art: Ihwa Mural Village
Walking down from Naksan Park leads you naturally into the Ihwa Mural Village (이화벽화마을). In 2025, the murals still blend beautifully with the local architecture, feeling like a natural extension of the neighborhood rather than artificial additions. Despite the quiet holiday air, the colorful art provided plenty of visual joy. Choosing to walk down from the park toward Ihwa Village is an excellent strategic choice to avoid the grueling uphill climb.
Tranquility in the Alleys
The village features charming traditional houses and Gallery Naksan, alongside murals of the neighborhood's famous residents—its local dogs and cats. The steepness of the area is quite something to behold; even while descending, you can feel the unique vertical character of this historic residential district.
Nostalgic Shelter: Hakrim Dabang (학림다방)
We concluded our tour in Hyehwa-dong at the legendary Hakrim Dabang (학림다방). Established as a pivotal meeting place for the 1980s democratization movement, it remains a "special" spot in Daehakro. The subtle aroma of coffee and the sound of classical music offer a perfect refuge from the rain. We enjoyed a warm cappuccino and their signature cream cheese cake, which was the perfect reward for our walk.
Tips for a Rainy Day Walk
A rainy day at Naksan and Hyehwa is remarkably romantic. If you're visiting with family, definitely utilize the village bus to save your energy for the descent. Arriving at Hakrim Dabang around 1:30 PM might require a short wait, but the vintage atmosphere and cozy sofas make it a valuable experience. This route allows you to enjoy the old charm of Seoul at a leisurely pace.
Naksan and Hyehwa Photo Gallery
Have you ever explored the historical layers of Naksan Park, or do you have a favorite mural in Ihwa Village that resonates with you? If you were to visit Hyehwa-dong, would you choose the nostalgic atmosphere of Hakrim Dabang or a modern cafe in the bustling center of Daehakro? Let me know if you'd like a more detailed map of the Ihwa murals or recommendations for other stops along the Seoul City Wall trail!
Would you like me to help you plan your next stop on the Seoul City Wall Stamp Tour, perhaps starting from Hyehwamun Gate?
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