A Day of Haejangguk and City Views: From Daehwa to Naksan Fortress Wall
266-15 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
진짜해장국

Seoul is a city where a single meal can fuel an entire day of exploration. My recent journey began at the famous Jinzza Haejangguk (진짜해장국), where the portions are so legendary that a 'special' order with extra seonji (ox blood curd) can keep you full well into the night. This hearty start provided the perfect energy for a long, scenic walk through the historical heart of the city.
From the modern curves of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) to the ancient stones of the Naksan Fortress Wall Path, this walking tour highlights the beautiful contrast between Seoul's past and present. Whether you are browsing handmade crafts at a fair or watching foreigners enjoy traditional Korean games against a backdrop of mountains, this route offers a refreshing autumnal perspective on the capital's charms.
A Legendary Start: Jinzza Haejangguk (진짜해장국)
Located near the bustling markets of Jongno, Jinzza Haejangguk is a local favorite that lives up to its name. I ordered the special haejangguk and requested extra seonji, resulting in an earthenware pot overflowing with beef neck bones, tender meat, and dense ox blood curd. The broth, seasoned with savory soybean paste, is the ultimate comfort food for any traveler.
Post-Meal Stroll: DDP and the Craft Fair
After finishing the massive bowl, I headed to the nearby Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) to walk off the meal. Luckily, a craft fair was in full swing, featuring booths with various handmade items. The futuristic architecture of the DDP provided a stunning contrast to the traditional meal I had just enjoyed, offering plenty of unique sights to explore during a leisurely walk.
Walking through History: Heunginjimun and Naksan Park
Leaving the DDP, I crossed the Cheonggyecheon Stream and headed toward Heunginjimun Gate. This historic gate looks even more impressive when viewed from the elevated paths of Heunginjimun Park. The park was filled with vibrant autumnal scenes, creating a peaceful atmosphere right in the middle of the busy city center.
Scenes from the Naksan Fortress Wall Path
As I climbed the Naksan Fortress Wall Path (낙산성곽길), I encountered groups of young foreigners playing "gonggi" (Korean jacks) and enjoying the local culture. This path has gained immense popularity recently, and it's easy to see why. The houses nestled along the wall offer some of the best views in Seoul, with the fortress and mountains stretching out like a folding screen toward Namsan.
Sunset Views over Seoul Tower and Daehakro
Reaching the entrance of Naksan Park, I was greeted with a panoramic view of Namsan Seoul Tower and the lively streets of Daehakro below. On a clear day, you can even spot Lotte World Tower in the distance. The walk along the fortress wall provides a unique vantage point to see how the city's residential areas harmonize with the ancient stone structures and distant peaks.
A Full Heart and a Full Stomach
The journey concluded with a deep appreciation for Seoul's scenery. The hearty lunch was so substantial that I felt satisfied even late into the evening. While the extra seonji was delicious, I might stick to a regular portion next time to make the uphill climb a bit lighter! It was a perfect day of food, culture, and exercise in the heart of the city.
Photo Gallery of a Day in Seoul
Have you ever tried a traditional Korean Haejangguk with ox blood curd, or do you prefer milder breakfast soups? If you're visiting the Dongdaemun area, would you rather explore the modern exhibitions inside the DDP or take a hike along the ancient fortress walls for the best city views? Let me know if you need help planning a walking route that hits all the best photo spots in Seoul!
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