Exploring the Historical Significance of Seonggeosan Catholic Martyr Site
Chungcheongnam-do Monument No. 175
Seonggeosan Catholic Martyr Site in Cheonan
490-1 Napan-ri, Buk-myeon, Dongnam-gu, Cheonan-si, Chungcheongnam-do
Recently, I visited the Seonggeosan shrine with my family. It is not far from the city center, yet as we ascended, the air changed, and the atmosphere became profoundly deeper.
As we entered the depths of the Seonggeosan mountain, we came across a sign marking the 'Seonggeosan Shrine,' revealing an open space within the forest.
What kind of place is the Seonggeosan shrine? The Catholic relics in Cheonan represent a community of believers who lived their faith around Seonggeosan during the Byeongin Persecution, where many were martyred. The first and second mass graves contain the remains of five martyrs, including Bae Mun-ho (Peter), Choi Cheon-yeo (Peter), Choi Jong-yeo (Lazarus), Ko Ui-jin (Joseph), and the daughter-in-law of the Chae family, who were captured in Sohakgol and martyred on November 8, 1866, at Hwangsaebawi in Gongju, along with many unnamed martyrs.
The foothills of Seonggeosan served as a foundation for Catholics to practice their faith from the early 19th century until the end of the persecution, particularly the Sohakgol community, which was a hub for Father Calais's pastoral activities covering parts of Chungcheong, Gyeongsang, and Gyeonggi provinces. This site preserves the geography, living relics, and records of the Catholic community during the persecution.
Recognizing its historical significance, it was designated as Chungcheongnam-do Monument No. 175, 'Seonggeosan Catholic Martyr Site in Cheonan,' in December 2008.
Walking deeper into the shrine, we saw the mass graves. Here lie the faithful, including those who were martyred in Sohakgol and Seodeulgol, as well as countless others who passed away without names. The first mass grave contains 38 graves, while the second has 36, and according to past testimonies, there were actually over 100 graves, making the weight of this place feel even heavier.
Upon entering the Seonggeosan shrine, my first thought was, 'They lived here, preserving their faith even in such a deep mountain.' Today, there are well-maintained walking paths, signposts, and a commemorative church, but reflecting on the past, this place must have served as a hiding space and a last bastion for faith.
What were they risking their lives to protect? How much do we understand their will and heart today? It was a moment to ponder these questions.
The Seonggeosan shrine is not only a sacred site but also a pleasant healing space. The walking trail around the community is harmoniously connected with wooden decks and gentle slopes, making it easy to walk. Along the way, three restored houses quietly stand around a large ginkgo tree, and sculptures representing Jesus's sufferings invite visitors to stop and reflect.
Despite being a space where faith had to be guarded in deep and rugged mountains, the atmosphere felt warm and comforting as we walked through it.
Inside the church built to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Byeongin Persecution, statues of the Virgin Mary and Jesus are present. The statue of Jesus, positioned high, seems designed so that worshippers naturally look up to it during mass, creating a calm and sacred space overall.
One striking aspect of the Seonggeosan shrine is the peculiar clash between the traces of the persecution era and the current tranquility. On one side, there are mass graves and old tombstones of those who lost their lives during the persecution, while on the other side, a serene forest path continues.
As I walked between them, I couldn't help but wonder, 'How fearful and lonely were those who hid and traversed these deep mountain paths?' Although we can now walk comfortably on deck paths and well-kept forest trails, I could somewhat imagine the anxiety and urgency of that era.
While the Seonggeosan shrine may not be a tourist hotspot filled with attractions, it is a special place where one can quietly reflect on the lives of those who came before us. Walking along the forest path evokes past pains, and the contrast with the peaceful scenery today poignantly highlights the passage of time.
It is not just a heavy place; it is a suitable walking course for reflection and contemplation. Thanks to the tranquil atmosphere of Seonggeosan, I found my heart at ease.
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