Exploring History Where Temples and Villages Meet

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 Located in Cheongnam, Nonsan-si, Yeonsan-myeon, is the Gaetaesa Temple, established by King Taejo Wang Geon. Yeonsan has historically been a well-developed transportation hub. Unlike typical temples, Gaetaesa was built with accessibility in mind, befitting a royal temple. With the creation of the Cheonho Village Trail surrounding Gaetaesa, visitors can now enjoy a historical exploration that harmonizes the temple and the village.

At the entrance of Gaetaesa, a spacious parking lot is available. Before entering the temple grounds, a signboard introduces 'Cheonhosan National Defense Temple Gaetaesa.' Understanding the meanings of Cheonhosan, National Defense Temple, and Gaetaesa through this notice is essential, as the saying goes, 'You see what you know.'

Cheonhosan is a mountain located in Yeonsan-myeon, Nonsan-si, where King Taejo Wang Geon changed the name of Hwangsan (Yellow Mountain), the site of the last battle of Baekje, to Cheonhosan (Heavenly Protection Mountain) after unifying the Later Three Kingdoms. The term National Defense Temple signifies the aspiration for the nation's peace and prosperity after this unification. Gaetaesa translates to 'the temple that opens the way to peace.'

Upon entering the temple grounds, the first building you encounter is the Sinjongru, which serves as a symbolic space that separates the secular and the sacred. Passing through Sinjongru, making eye contact with the Four Heavenly Kings calms the mind and prepares one to enter the Buddhist world.

The five-story stone pagoda, preserving the architectural style of the Goryeo Dynasty, stands in the temple grounds. Its elegant and balanced appearance conveys the beauty of Buddhist architecture of that era. It is said to house 16 relics of the Buddha brought from India by the monk Yeongi, making it a place of reverence even for non-Buddhists.

Next to the five-story pagoda is the monument of King Taejo Wang Geon's proclamation. In this proclamation, he expressed gratitude to heaven and the Buddha for the unification of the Later Three Kingdoms and prayed for the nation's peace. This document reflects Wang Geon's political will and religious beliefs.

Gaetaesa also features a special hall called Eojinjeon, which houses a portrait of King Taejo Wang Geon. It is said that during times of national crisis, prayers were offered here for the nation's safety. Alongside the portrait, visitors can see a replica of a bronze statue of King Taejo Wang Geon from Bongunsa Temple in Gaegyeong, North Korea.

Adjacent to Eojinjeon is the Geungnakbojeon, which houses the Seokjo Yerae Samjonip Sang (Treasure No. 219), a stone statue from the Goryeo era. Despite the passage of time, the statue retains a majestic smile, showcasing the aesthetics of Goryeo Buddhism. While photography is prohibited, visiting Gaetaesa in person to appreciate its beauty is highly recommended.

To conclude your visit, you might enjoy walking the Cheonho Village Trail. After exploring Gaetaesa, I ventured to find the nearby Gaetaesaji site, which was established by King Taejo Wang Geon after defeating the Later Baekje. The site is expansive, hinting at the scale of the original temple.

In summary, Gaetaesa is a symbol of the Goryeo Dynasty and the spirit of national defense Buddhism. Walking through the temple grounds and reflecting on the reasons behind its establishment will help you understand why it is called a National Defense Temple.