A Winter Walk Through Ancient Korea: Discovering Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
충청남도 보령시 성주면 성주리 72
보령 성주사지
Winter Reflections at a Historic Site
▲ Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
As we pass through the winter solstice, the cold season deepens. Traveling on a chilly winter day can bring a refreshing joy. Marcel Proust once said, "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."
▲ Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
For my first destination in 2926, I visited Seongju-myeon in Boryeong city. Walking around the designated historic site of Seongju Temple allows one to gain a new perspective on history. There is a parking lot next to the entrance of the Millennium History Hall of Seongju Temple Site, where I parked before exploring the site bathed in the bright winter light.
Origins and Historical Background
▲ Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
This site was home to Seongju Temple, originally built during the Baekje Dynasty under King Beophung, known then as Ohasasa (烏合寺). It was renamed Seongju Temple by King Munseong of Silla after the monk Nanghye returned from Tang China and renovated the temple. Seongju Temple is believed to have declined during the Imjin War and was abandoned by the mid-17th century.
National Treasures and Stone Heritage
▲ Nanghye's White Moon Tower Stele
Unlike other temples from the Unified Silla period, Seongju Temple adopted a flatland layout. To the northwest of the site stands the National Treasure, Nanghye's White Moon Tower Stele, which is the largest stone stele from the Silla period and holds significant academic value.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Guide Map
This stele features inscriptions by the scholar Choi Chiwon, engraved on a body made from Nampho's five stones. Standing at 5 meters tall, its sculptural beauty is remarkable, making it a precious cultural heritage.
Stone Buddha and Pagodas
▲ Seongju Temple Site Stone Buddha Statue
To the northeast of the Seongju Temple ruins is a stone Buddha statue designated as a cultural heritage of Chungnam, located near the northern lecture hall of Seongju Temple. It is estimated to date from the late Goryeo to early Joseon periods. The oval face shows significant damage but still has a benevolent expression.
▲ Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
Just below the stone Buddha statue are three stone pagodas, all designated as treasures. Nowadays, the designation as treasures does not include their number. Here, you can find the West Three-Story Stone Pagoda, Central Stone Pagoda, and East Three-Story Stone Pagoda lined up together.
West, Central, and East Stone Pagodas
▲ West Three-Story Stone Pagoda
The West Three-Story Stone Pagoda stands 4 meters tall, built on a two-story base with a three-story upper section, maintaining a relatively complete form. It presents a dignified and beautiful sight.
▲ Central Stone Pagoda
The Central Stone Pagoda is nearly identical in style and size to the West Three-Story Stone Pagoda, built on a two-story base with several large stones supporting the upper section.
▲ East Three-Story Stone Pagoda
The East Three-Story Stone Pagoda, measuring 4.6 meters, is constructed of the same granite as the other two pagodas and follows a similar style. It has a typical design with a base constructed above a tall stone, forming the upper section, adorned with a finial at the top.
Main Hall and Central Structures
▲ Seongju Temple Site Main Hall
In front of the three stone pagodas is the Main Hall, elevated approximately 70-80 cm above the surrounding ground. Climbing up here offers a great view of the three pagodas.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Main Hall Steps
The steps leading up to this hall are flanked by lion statues, which were unfortunately stolen in 1986 and later reconstructed based on photographs. It is a regrettable reality that cultural heritage is stolen, and strict measures should be taken against such acts.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Five-Story Stone Pagoda
In front of the Main Hall stands the Five-Story Stone Pagoda, standing at 6.6 meters and designated as a treasure. It is positioned alongside a stone lantern and is believed to date back to the late Unified Silla period, showing many modifications compared to typical stone pagodas from the Silla era.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Stone Lantern
Right in front of the five-story pagoda is the Seongju Temple Site Stone Lantern, a small lantern standing 2.2 meters tall, primarily octagonal in shape. It was assembled from pieces that had been scattered during the Japanese occupation, and it was restored to its current location in 1971 when four pagodas were disassembled for repairs.
Millennium History Hall and Visitor Facilities
▲ Seongju Temple Site in Boryeong
After exploring this area, I took a moment to look back at the visible landscape. Although no temple remains, the cultural heritage left behind evokes thoughts of its past. We must preserve these sites for future generations.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Millennium History Hall
Walking about five minutes towards the parking lot, I came across a tiled building that serves as a resting area, perfect for escaping the summer heat. It is conveniently located near restrooms and connects to the parking lot.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Rest Area
From the parking lot, the Millennium History Hall of Seongju Temple Site is visible. The history hall spans 917㎡ on the first floor and includes a promotional room, video experience room, children's experience center, and a resting area.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Millennium History Hall
The exhibition hall features stories about the monk Nanghye, the evolution of Seongju Temple, and the inscriptions on the stele, allowing visitors to learn about the temple's history. After visiting here, it is also nice to explore the Boryeong Coal Museum and the Boryeong Hibiscus Arboretum.
▲ Seongju Temple Site Millennium History Hall
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